It is a routine we do daily, almost without thinking about it: first the shampoo and then the conditioner. But Why do we do this? If the order is very inverted, would the result be the same? The answer is no. Shampoo and conditioner have different functions: the first cleanthe second revives and restores the balance of the hair. The shampoo is prepared for hair washing: however this step can alter the hydrolipidic film And make the scalp dry and damaged. In addition, during washing can be created electrostatic repulsions between the cuticles, generating a rough, opaque hair and frizz. At this point the conditioner comes into play, that restore the lost balance: its components reduce the friction between the locks, close the cuticles raised and improve the appearance of the widespread stem. So the hair comes back soft, shiny and easier to comb.
Shampoo components are used to eliminate dirt
The goal of shampoo is that of clean The hair. In fact, in the formulation of these products there are surfactants, i.e. molecules equipped with a hydrophobic end, capable of binding the dirt of a lipid nature (fat, so to speak) and a hydrophilic end to interact with water and being able transport the dirt away during rinsing. If we turn the packaging of a shampoo and start reading the INCI, it is likely that we will come across two particular words, SLS (sodium lauril sulfato) And Sles (sodium laurerileter sulfate), which are the anionic surfactants (i.e. they have a negative charge) most used in these products. Their name, which can be quite complex, derives from their chemical structure: it is in fact the union between thelauric acida fatty acid with 14 carbon atoms (the hydrophobic tail) and anonymous structures, i.e. containing a negative charge, containing a sulphate group or his derivative (his hydrophilic head).
Several studies have shown that these common surfactants, albeit very effective in removing dirt, can also remove the natural lipids that make up the Hydrolipidic film of the epidermis and the hair. This movie is one fundamental barrier To maintain the skin hydrated, protected and in balance: its alteration can in fact lead to dryness or irritation. This impossibility of distinguishing the fats “to be eliminated”, such as excess sebum and dirt, from those that are naturally part of the skin and hair leads to a very powerful cleansing effect, but potentially aggressiveespecially in case of frequent use or on sensitive skin.
The conditioner contains substances to reappear the hair
The excessive cleansing promoted by the anionic surfactants and the mechanical action we exercise by rubbing the hair during washing can lead them to look dry and damaged. The reasons for this phenomenon are different, such as the removal of the thin lipid membrane of the hair, consisting mainly of 18-MEA (methyleicosanoic acid, fatty acid); or as the formation of electrostatic repulsions that take place among the negative charges of cuticle – or the “flakes” that cover the hair stem externally. In practice, the cuticles load negatively and reject each other, lifting: The result are frizzy hair with the dull color.
The molecules contained inside the balms, such as i silicones oi Quaternary ammonium saltsgive the hair their original appearance through different mechanisms of action: they can for example form a protective barrier on the surface of the hair by reducing the clutch between the locks, or can act electrostatic thanks to the use of cationic surfactants (i.e. positively loaded) that adhere to the damaged areas of the hair (loaded negatively) by neutralizing the charges and helping to lower the cuticles raised, sealing them. In this way the hair stem returns compact and uniform.
