If you’ve ever wondered what a lipstick contains, you must know that one of the ingredients is a molecule with a bizarre name: the “squalene“. The name derives from the history of this compound which for years has been extracted from Sharks liver. Today we also find it in completely vegetable versions and is still of precious importance for the world of cosmetics. Squalene is a lipide, that is, a fatalso present in our body: it constitutes about 13% of ours sebumthat oily substance that the skin naturally produces to remain protected and hydrated. Squalene is known not only for its extraordinary properties moisturizersbut also for his abilities antioxidants, anti -inflammatory and even anticancer. To date, no cases of acute toxicity have been documented following the assumption of Squalene. In cosmetics, it is used in skincare products for its emollient properties, Which make it perfect to hydrate without greasing and softens without weighing down: for this reason it has been widely used in lipsticks, creams, serums and many other products. But be careful: pure squalene tends to degrade easily to light, a weak point who quickly made him pass in the background, giving way to one of his more modern and stable version, it squalos.
From the skin to drugs
In our body, in addition to being a component of the sebum, the squalene is also a fundamental precursor of the biosynthesis of cholesterol and numerous natural triterpenoids – very important substances in our body – including some vitamins, such as vitamin D. but does not end here, the squalene is widely used also in the medical field such as Vector for drugs and vaccines.
Thanks to its nature lipid and hydrophobic and good biocompatibility (it is not rejected by the body), it is used to create emulsions stable within which different can be inserted active ingredients, As drugs, to improve their solubilization, controlled release and cellular absorption. This makes it a key ingredient in innovative formulations for the administration of drugs and vaccines, making this molecule even more particular and fascinating.
The transition from Squalene to Squalano
Over time, the squalene has been gradually replaced by a very similar molecule: it squalos. It is not a spelling mistake: Squalano (with the “A”) is the hydrogenated version of the Squalene. To better understand this difference, you need to jump to chemistry. Squalene is a molecule unsuccessfulThat is, it contains double ties among the carbon atoms that make it up. The presence of double ties makes the squalene more vulnerable tooxidationa chemical reaction that starts its deterioration when it comes into contact with the air and light. Think about rusty iron. When iron comes into contact with humidity and air, it oxidizes quickly and loses its strength. Squalene, being an unsuccessful molecule, is equally vulnerable to oxidation, just like the iron that rusts.
Squalano, on the other hand, is the version hydrogenata and saturated of the Squalene. This means that through a chemical process that adds hydrogen to the molecule, carbon atoms “saturate”, that is, they bind to the added hydrogen atoms, eliminating double ties and increasing the stability of the substance. This process makes the squandter a molecule more resistant to light and oxidationkeeping its cosmetic properties intact over time.
Both today come mainly from vegetable sources, such as olive oil, or are produced in the laboratory starting from yeasts, making their use more ethical Compared to the animal Squalene, which was extracted from the preparations of the sharks, thus saving the life of many of them.
The therapeutic potential of the Squalene
In addition to the ability to hydrate and protect the skin, the squalene has aroused growing interest in research also for its potential benefits in the prevention and care of diseases. However, these are still in vitro studies: in fact there are no research on man who confirm these effects. Several studies have shown that the compound, thanks to its anti -inflammatory and antioxidant properties, could play a role in protection against some degenerative diseases, such as the cancer. In fact, he was tested in the laboratory to evaluate his action against different tumor forms, helping to broaden his potential employment in pharmaceutical area. As always, but from the laboratory to real life the jump is great and although it is an excellent ally in the cosmetic field, the therapeutic potential they need confirmation from a greater number of research and above all from clinical studies on humans.
In addition, returning to the world of beauty, its applications in cosmetics are not limited to hydration. Squalene is in fact a key component in many products anti-agingwhere his neutralization ability, free radicals (antioxidant action) helps to counteract the aging of the skin, improving its elasticity and tonicity. Thus, between hydration, protection and therapeutic potential, the Squalene is confirmed as a compound versatile It is interesting in numerous areas.
