There are many voices alternating on the subject. On the one hand, those who state with absolute firmness that haute cuisine is now dead and buried, or at least in crisis, the dishes need to be rethought, as well as the entire organisation. Those on the other hand peacefully underline how this is a model which, despite ups and downs in the world and in Europe, is not destined to become extinct. But where is the truth found? The analysis carried out by the media Pambianco Magazine helps us take stock of the topic. Spoiler: The fine dining sector in Italy actually confirms its growth. Even if the analysis includes only 10 large groups.

Pambianco Magazine’s analysis of fine dining in Italy

What state is haute cuisine in in Italy? Despite exhausting shifts, timetables to be reviewed, inflation, bureaucracy and skyrocketing prices – all issues that have been on the table for months now – this is a sector that seems to be holding up. At least if you look at the economic performance of the big names. Pambianco Magazine has disclosed the results of its analysis, starting from the revenues declared by the 10 largest Italian starred restaurant groups. It emerged that in 2023 the turnover of these activities exceeded 200 million euros, recording an average overall increase in revenues of 17% compared to the previous year (which however was still partially a pandemic year). For a total of almost 209 million euros, compared to 178 million in 2022, highlighting notable consolidation and diversification in the sector. But who are the kings (midas) of haute cuisine? The names certainly don’t sound new.

The 10 restaurants leading the haute cuisine sector: the names

Leading the ranking are the Cerea brothers from the Da Vittorio restaurant, in the province of Bergamo, and the Cannavacciuolo Group. We read: “The Da Vittorio group leads the ranking with a turnover of 87 million euros, marking an increase of 30% compared to 2022, thanks to diversification in the catering and restaurant sector. The Cannavacciuolo Group follows, which closed 2023 with an aggregate revenue of 24 million euros (+4%)”. The chef from Campania is therefore rewarded thanks to the expansion in recent years in the hospitality sector, thanks to the new openings linked to the Laqua Collection chain, which integrates with gourmet catering.

Followed by: “The Alajmo family and the Francescana world of Massimo Bottura which confirm growth, respectively with increases of 6% (2023 turnover at 19 million euros) and 10% (2023 turnover at 18.7 million euros) compared to ‘previous year’. The ranking also includes Enrico Bartolini, the most starred chef in Italy, and Carlo Cracco who recorded increases of 16% (2023 turnover at 15.9 million euros) and 4% (2023 turnover at 12.3 million euros ). Niko Romito from Abruzzo achieved an increase of 26% with revenues of 9.6 million euros, while Giancarlo Perbellinii from Veneto follows with 8.6 million euros and an increase of 4%. The Enoteca Pinchiorri, with an increase of 25% bringing revenues to 7 million euros, continues the positive trend of the sector. A plus sign also for Enrico Crippa’s 2023 budget which, with the three-starred Piazza Duomo and the La Piola restaurant in Piedmont (in partnership with the Ceretto family), closes the financial year with 6.6 million euros (+10 percent) .

The key to success is diversification

From this analysis a clear fact emerges. Diversification of your activities is the key to the success of your business. In fact, all the chefs mentioned have extended their hands into the similar and neighboring sectors of catering, hospitality, consultancy, more agile spin-offs and less established catering models: in short, it is certified that the restaurant is only a springboard for then invoicing in adjacent sectors . Of course, one could argue that the 10 taken into consideration by Pambianco are the elite of haute cuisine, leaving aside the numerous other gastronomic restaurants present in Italy which instead make a considerable effort. A research that could be a harbinger of one of the most probable scenarios for the future: much fewer starred restaurants and those belonging to more structured and diversified groups.

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