The cutting of the gems It is a complex process that directly affects the brilliancethe dispersion and the value of a precious stone. Starting from the raw stone, the processing allows you to optimize interaction with lighttransforming the crystal into a refined product, ready to be set in jewelry or sold as a single piece. There are different types of cutting, divided into cuts brighta steps, mixed, fantasy And unconventionaleach designed to best enhance the Optical and structural characteristics of the stone.
The cut of precious stones
The importance of cutting a precious gem
The cut of a gem, an ancient art of thousands of years, is one of the most decisive factors in defining its overall beauty and value. The way a stone is processed can significantly influence his Optical characteristicsincluding the brilliancethat is, the intensity of the reflected light, the shineor the appearance of the surface of the gem, and the dispersion (or fire), or the way in which the stone disappears the white light in its spectral colors. A well -cut gem will reflect and refract the light optimally, maximizing its visual attraction. On the contrary, an inaccurate cut could make the gem appeared off and without vitality.
The cutting process: short guide
The goal of processing and cutting a gem is optimize the interaction of the stone with the light. The cut, however, does not limit itself to modifying its shape, but also affects the cornersthe proportions and the symmetry of faces (or faces), as well as on size overall of the crystal.
The raw material is represented by raw stone. This can present itself in nature in different forms: it can have a crystalline dress well -developed and a regular form (euedrale), be without a regular geometric form and not very developed faces (anedrale), or be fragmented or even smooth from the action of exogenous agents, such as the erosion of waterways.
The cut of a gem includes numerous processes, and it is up to the lapidariesexperts in the processing of precious stones, determine the type and optimal sequence of the processing phases, according to the characteristics of the mineral and the desired final effect. Some common phases are:
- Facet: gives the stone precise facesusually made with diamond abrasive discs, in order to maximize the reflection of light.
- Cut: divides the rough gem into smaller pieces, using saws or blades whose material varies according to the hardness of the stone on the Mohs scale.
- Polishing: takes place through the use of abrasive materials Of different granulometry, in order to give the stone, a brilliant and smooth appearance.
Types of cuts of precious stones: from the brilliant to the cabochon
The world of gems cuts is extremely vast And diversified. If we were to identify the most popular cuts, we could divide them into five categories Main: bright cutscuts stepscuts mixedcuts fantasy and cuts unconventional. They are illustrated below just a few among the numerous types of cut.
Bright cuts
Cuts bright they are among the best known, typically used in diamonds and are designed for maximize the dispersion of the light and the brilliance of the gem. The most iconic brilliant cut is the bright round cutcomposed of 58 symmetrical triangular facesof which 33 located on crown – the upper portion of the gem – and 25 on pavilion – the lower part of the stone. Its perfectly symmetrical and circular shape amplifies the reflection of light, making the stone extremely bright from any angle. A variant of the bright round is the brilliant ovalcharacterized by 56-58 faces It is a form that makes the Gema tendentially bigger appear.
Other types of brilliant cuts are, for example, the cut Princess and the cut “cushion“. The first is characterized by a square form or rectangular with corners well -defined And 57 or 76 faces. The pillow cut, on the other hand, combines the brilliance of the round brilliant cut with a generally square or rectangular shape with Sleemed corners.
Steps cuts
Cuts steps are characterized by rectangular faces, flat And parallelarranged to emphasize clarity And depth and create a game of lights And shadow On the gem, rather than maximizing its brilliance. The emerald cut It is certainly the best known in this category, with its rectangular form, parallel veneers and corners taped. This cut enhances the transparency of the stone and the optical depth.
A variant of the emerald cut is the cut Asscherwith corners cut to create a shape octagonala high crown and steps with steps. Another steps cut is the cut Baguettewith a form rectangular and elongated and faces tips.
Mixed cuts
Cuts mixed They combine elements of the brilliant cuts and steps. For example, the oval and pillow cuts in which the pavilion is cut into steps are common, while the crown is multifaceted with the style of a brilliant cut. The cut “pear“or”tender“It combines the brilliance of a round cut with an elongated and pointed shape. Or again, the cut Marquise characteristic for its elongated shape with pointed end.
Among the mixed cuts, the Cest cutcharacterized by a steps and a brilliant crown, typically used for sapphires, it is widespread in Sri Lanka. Finally, the Barion cut incorporates a round brilliant pavilion in a gem of fantasy shape and has a crown with steps. A distinctive feature is the presence of Faccette in Quarto di Luna along the belt – the area between the pavilion and the crown – creating a cross motif in the center of the stone.
Fantasy cuts
Fantasy cuts are unique and varied shapes. Iconic examples are the heart cut or the cut trilliant. The latter typically has a triangular shape with 31-50 faceswith curved edges or straight. Or again, the cut Radiant It is a hybrid between the emerald cut and the round brilliant cut, with blunt angles and about 70 faces.
Unconventional cuts
This category includes historical or innovative cuts, often experimental or rare. An example is the cut “pink“, characterized by a flat base and a dome faceted, Perfect to enhance the color of the gems.
Other examples are: the cut Kitewhich presents a form rhomboid with sharp corner faces; cutting Portuguesea complex cut with 161 faces arranged in concentric circles on the crown and the pavilion to maximize the reflection of light, creating an extraordinary effect of glitter and fire; cutting Jubileecreated in the 19th century to celebrate the Jubilee of Queen Vittoria, has a rounded form with 88 or more faces.
Non -faceted cuts
Finally, there are the cuts not multifacetedthe best known of which is the cut Cabochon. It is one of the most ancient processing techniques and presents one surface smooth And roundedenhancing shine and color rather than brilliance. The traditional form is ellipticalwith one flat base and a rounded upper part.
