From the Sargasso Sea to our Christmas tables, l‘eelor rather the capitonethey are a true traditional dish. If anyone has wondered about the true meaning of these terms, it should immediately be said that “eel” and “capitone” they essentially indicate the same animalbut in culinary jargon, we speak of capitone to indicate afemale eel large in size and suitable for preparing a dish. In fact, the European eel (Eel eel) is a fish particularly appreciated in cooking and almost all European countries have traditional recipes based on eel. The eel tradition unites European peoples more than one might imagine. In Italy, it is eaten fried, roasted or stewed, the English prepare it with broths and pies, in Denmark and Holland it is smoked. Asians, in particular the Chinese, are also large consumers of it, so much so that it is considered one of the fish species of greatest commercial interest in the world. In reality, the European eel is not doing well at all due to various threats, including the illegal fishing: it is a very vulnerable animal and classified as “critically endangered” by the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN) and whose international trade has been regulated since 2007, precisely because it is at risk of extinction.
Which eels are used in cooking and what are the properties of their meat
There are 19 species and subspecies of eel, but the most appreciated is theEuropean eel (Eel eel). The specimens that are marketed as food are mostly females in the adult stage, precisely the so-called capitoniwhich can weigh more than 3 kg and reach approximately 1 meter in length. The juvenile stages of the animal, the so-called Czech and the males are not used in the kitchen because they are too small and less tasty. The male, said buratello in fishermen’s jargon, it is different from the female (an example of sexual dimorphism), it does not exceed 200 g in weight and 50 cm in length.
Scientific studies show that the European eel is a good source of high-quality protein and Omega-3; the fat content and the ratio between essential and non-essential amino acids is higher in larger eels. Furthermore, experiments with different cooking methods highlighted that raw and cooked eel show significant differences in monounsaturated fatty acid content and the fatty acid profile is influenced by cooking methods. For example, fried and baked eel have the lowest oleic acid content, while grilling and microwave cooking have proven to be the best cooking methods for maintaining high levels of EPA (Eicosapentaenoic Acid), a Omega-3 fatty acid.
How eels are raised, where and how they are cooked in Italy
The eel is a fish characterized by a very long and complex life cycle. They are all born in the Sargasso Sea and as soon as they are born they begin a journey of almost 10,000 km to reach the Mediterranean coasts and European rivers, through the Strait of Gibraltar. Along the journey they develop, undergoing well five metamorphoses.
Along the European coasts they are fished at the stage of Czechi.e. young eels, and then kept for a few years in brackish water farms to grow them, waiting for the transformation into adult eels. In Italy, the breeding tradition is above all in the famous Comacchio valleysa particular system of brackish basins, distributed in the area of the Po river delta, in the province of Ferrara.
Valley farming has ancient traditions in this area, but while in the past eel was consumed all year round, the tradition has now remained especially at Christmas and at the end of the year. In Comacchio, the eels are cooked on the grill and then marinated, while in Naples the Christmas tradition involves the preparation of fried capitone in slices. Here there also seems to be a symbolic meaning since, given the serpentine appearance of the eel, cutting it into slices recalls the act of tearing the snake into pieces, which has always been a symbol of evil (in spite of itself).
Because eels are at risk of extinction
During the journey from the Sargasso Sea to Gibraltar the eels are threatened by predationalterations in the conditions of the oceans, but above all by dams and barriers along the rivers and by excessive exploitation for fishing. To counteract the strong decline of the species, the European Union introduced Regulation (EC) no. 1100/2007, which provides measures for the recovery of the European eel. Among these, the obligation for member countries to adopt national management plans by 2009, with limits on fishing and trade of the species.
Nonetheless, given the great demand from Asia, tons of wild eels at the elver stage are intercepted in the Strait of Gibraltar and sold clandestinely. In Spain, sheds full of suitcases have been discovered, perfectly waterproofedwhich are filled with live elvers and ice to keep the temperature low and then sent clandestinely towards Asian routes: each smuggled suitcase can reach the value of up to €80,000.
